2. 2009

Mt Blanc in July.

In summer I enrolled in a five day mountaineering course, aimed at climbing Mt Blanc - Europe's highest mountain at 4,807m - via the 3 Monts route. Whilst significantly more vertical than the standard Gouter track, this route is considered more aesthetic. I discovered that in the mountains, this can also mean 'terrifying.' Don't miss the published story of this adventure!
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  • On Day 1 six of us were roped together by a guide and stumbled around the Mer de Glace Glacier, learning the use of our crampons and ice-axes. The endless roped groups descending the ever-growing 50+ m cliff onto the ever-melting glacier reminded me of rush hour in London, turned surreal.

    On Day 1 six of us were roped together by a guide and stumbled around the Mer de Glace Glacier, learning the use of our crampons and ice-axes. The endless roped groups descending the ever-growing 50+ m cliff onto the ever-melting glacier reminded me of rush hour in London, turned surreal.

  • Where the glacier rounded a bend it bunched up, throwing up massive ice walls and crevasses.

    Where the glacier rounded a bend it bunched up, throwing up massive ice walls and crevasses.

  • These were ideal for practicing ice climbing.

    These were ideal for practicing ice climbing.

  • Ice climber high

    Ice climber high

  • It was a lot funner than it might look. And harder, although ice-axes stick to the ice so well they can be hard to remove.

    It was a lot funner than it might look. And harder, although ice-axes stick to the ice so well they can be hard to remove.

  • Ice climbing AK 2

    Ice climbing AK 2

  • Aiguille du Midi 3,842 m. On Day 2 we started our altitude acclimitisation. Aiguille du Midi is reached via 2-stage cable car from Chamonix visible in the valley below at 1,000 m.

    Aiguille du Midi 3,842 m. On Day 2 we started our altitude acclimitisation. Aiguille du Midi is reached via 2-stage cable car from Chamonix visible in the valley below at 1,000 m.

  • Climbers leave via a snow cave, which exits onto the famous East Ridge. This is also the start of the famous Vallee Blanche ski descent back to Chamonix, which is 22 km off-piste along glaciers.

    Climbers leave via a snow cave, which exits onto the famous East Ridge. This is also the start of the famous Vallee Blanche ski descent back to Chamonix, which is 22 km off-piste along glaciers.

  • The ridge is is very steep.

    The ridge is is very steep.

  • Climbing partner Andy (right) and our guide Phillipe on the ridge.

    Climbing partner Andy (right) and our guide Phillipe on the ridge.

  • Aiguille du Midi ridge AK 1

    Aiguille du Midi ridge AK 1

  • Possible death awaits any who fall from the right side; almost certain death awaits any who fall to the left. After a very steep slide the face turns near vertical - for a very long way.

    Possible death awaits any who fall from the right side; almost certain death awaits any who fall to the left. After a very steep slide the face turns near vertical - for a very long way.

  • However, successful descent of the ridge delivers the climber to the glacial plain, from which an entire horizon on mountains awaits, begging to be climbed.

    However, successful descent of the ridge delivers the climber to the glacial plain, from which an entire horizon on mountains awaits, begging to be climbed.

  • Some climbers, however, prefer to work on their acclimatisation in other ways.

    Some climbers, however, prefer to work on their acclimatisation in other ways.

  • Andy (L) and Andrew (R) on the summit of Pt Lachenal. My climbing partner Andrew was also from England, so we named him 'Andy' to minimise confusion.

    Andy (L) and Andrew (R) on the summit of Pt Lachenal. My climbing partner Andrew was also from England, so we named him 'Andy' to minimise confusion.

  • Argentiere Glacier

    Argentiere Glacier

  • Argentiere Glacier & AK

    Argentiere Glacier & AK

  • On Day 3 our French mountain guide informed us we'd be attempting to climb Petite Verte above the Grand Montets ski area. It would be a 'very good test,' he informed us. Did I detect a touch of malice in his voice? The tiny dots 2/3 of the way up are climbers, near the base of the steep ice face (actually, entire face was icy).

    On Day 3 our French mountain guide informed us we'd be attempting to climb Petite Verte above the Grand Montets ski area. It would be a 'very good test,' he informed us. Did I detect a touch of malice in his voice? The tiny dots 2/3 of the way up are climbers, near the base of the steep ice face (actually, entire face was icy).

  • Most climbers sensibly ascend via the rocky ridge along the right edge of the ice face.

    Most climbers sensibly ascend via the rocky ridge along the right edge of the ice face.

  • Petite Verte N face climbers

    Petite Verte N face climbers

  • North face. Our guide, however, informed us we'd be going straight up the middle of this 90 m, 60 degree ice face. 'Righto' we said, with no idea how. Ignorance can sometimes be a good thing.

    North face. Our guide, however, informed us we'd be going straight up the middle of this 90 m, 60 degree ice face. 'Righto' we said, with no idea how. Ignorance can sometimes be a good thing.

  • We climbed in three, 30m pitches, with our guide hacking out miniature stances at the end of each rope length, and bolting us to the wall with ice screws, which we removed as we ascended. As the leader his maximum fall would be 60m if he fell - assuming I was able to successfully belay him. Perhaps given that I was a non-French speaking beginner, he hadn't bothered to attempt instruction. For entrusting their lives to strangers such as I these guides receive their modest daily fees. I must try to complain less about my job in future.

    We climbed in three, 30m pitches, with our guide hacking out miniature stances at the end of each rope length, and bolting us to the wall with ice screws, which we removed as we ascended. As the leader his maximum fall would be 60m if he fell - assuming I was able to successfully belay him. Perhaps given that I was a non-French speaking beginner, he hadn't bothered to attempt instruction. For entrusting their lives to strangers such as I these guides receive their modest daily fees. I must try to complain less about my job in future.

  • Somehow, muscles screaming, we made it to the top. This was the downwards view, when we reached the safety of the rocks. The red dot on the right, nearly 1/2 way down, is a climber approaching the base of the ice wall.

    Somehow, muscles screaming, we made it to the top. This was the downwards view, when we reached the safety of the rocks. The red dot on the right, nearly 1/2 way down, is a climber approaching the base of the ice wall.

  • The summit was a bit crowded with climbers arriving by the standard route, and space was at a premium. No-one else had been silly enough to attempt the north face.

    The summit was a bit crowded with climbers arriving by the standard route, and space was at a premium. No-one else had been silly enough to attempt the north face.

  • Petite Verte summit climbers 2

    Petite Verte summit climbers 2

  • Petite Verte summit AmcC & AK

    Petite Verte summit AmcC & AK

  • The Bossons Glacier reaches nearly all the way down into Chamonix Valley. The first ever successful ascent followed the rock to the right, and then traversed the top of the glacier.

    The Bossons Glacier reaches nearly all the way down into Chamonix Valley. The first ever successful ascent followed the rock to the right, and then traversed the top of the glacier.

  • 3 Monts traverse. The start point - Auguille du Midi - is out of shot to the left, along with the first Mont - Mt Blanc du Tacul. Mt Maudit is visible here to the left of Mt Blanc. The full traverse continues down the Bosses Ridge and over the Dome du Gouter, but we reversed our route after the summit.

    3 Monts traverse. The start point - Auguille du Midi - is out of shot to the left, along with the first Mont - Mt Blanc du Tacul. Mt Maudit is visible here to the left of Mt Blanc. The full traverse continues down the Bosses Ridge and over the Dome du Gouter, but we reversed our route after the summit.

  • Finally it was time for the big one - our summit push. We caught the first lift up to Auiguille du Midi at 0730 on Day 4. First though, we had to fight our way through rush-hour down the ridge.

    Finally it was time for the big one - our summit push. We caught the first lift up to Auiguille du Midi at 0730 on Day 4. First though, we had to fight our way through rush-hour down the ridge.

  • Our first peak - Mt Blanc du Tacul

    Our first peak - Mt Blanc du Tacul

  • Slab avalanches occassionally break off Mt Blanc du Tacul, sweeping the face clean of climbers and other detruitus. That's partly why climbers prefer to pass such regions before the dawn sun hits them, whilst everything is still frozen solid.

    Slab avalanches occassionally break off Mt Blanc du Tacul, sweeping the face clean of climbers and other detruitus. That's partly why climbers prefer to pass such regions before the dawn sun hits them, whilst everything is still frozen solid.

  • Coming over the shoulder of Mt Blanc du Tacul.

    Coming over the shoulder of Mt Blanc du Tacul.

  • Final stretch leading onto the summit

    Final stretch leading onto the summit

  • Mt Blanc summit, 4,807 m - the highest in Europe. Due to insufficient acclimatisation and fitness, the altitude hit me 200m below the summit. I suddenly felt very light-headed, almost asleep, and exhausted from the endless vertical stepping with very few breaks. My guide - to whom I was roped - refused to stop(!) so I twice had to sit and briefly refuse to move. The wind was gusting 60-70 km/h and the T was probably around -10C - fantastic conditions for Mt Blanc. Finally, I emerged from a haze of misery onto the summit.

    Mt Blanc summit, 4,807 m - the highest in Europe. Due to insufficient acclimatisation and fitness, the altitude hit me 200m below the summit. I suddenly felt very light-headed, almost asleep, and exhausted from the endless vertical stepping with very few breaks. My guide - to whom I was roped - refused to stop(!) so I twice had to sit and briefly refuse to move. The wind was gusting 60-70 km/h and the T was probably around -10C - fantastic conditions for Mt Blanc. Finally, I emerged from a haze of misery onto the summit.

  • Mt Blanc summit AK W

    Mt Blanc summit AK W

  • However the views make it all worthwhile. After descending the 3 Monts Route we stayed the night in the Cosmiques alpine hut, in the Col du Midi. This is the newest, most luxurious of the alpine huts. This was the view at dawn. The unusually good weather had allowed a campsite to spring up at 3,800 m in the col.

    However the views make it all worthwhile. After descending the 3 Monts Route we stayed the night in the Cosmiques alpine hut, in the Col du Midi. This is the newest, most luxurious of the alpine huts. This was the view at dawn. The unusually good weather had allowed a campsite to spring up at 3,800 m in the col.

  • Most people heading for the summit start at 2 am, to allow plenty of time to deal with unexpected contingencies and return safely by nightfall. Breakfast is served at 1, 3, 5 and 7 am. The rooms sleep 20, and people leave throughout the night. Few are left to leave at dawn.

    Most people heading for the summit start at 2 am, to allow plenty of time to deal with unexpected contingencies and return safely by nightfall. Breakfast is served at 1, 3, 5 and 7 am. The rooms sleep 20, and people leave throughout the night. Few are left to leave at dawn.

  • Col du Midi sunrise

    Col du Midi sunrise

  • Col du Midi sunrise landscape

    Col du Midi sunrise landscape

  • Mountaineering boots are rigid. This stops crampons falling off them but they're not the most comfortable. I discovered this common injury when I eventually got down. Altitude sickness, cold, exhaustion and sunburn/frostnip, I discovered, are all part of the joys of mountaineering!

    Mountaineering boots are rigid. This stops crampons falling off them but they're not the most comfortable. I discovered this common injury when I eventually got down. Altitude sickness, cold, exhaustion and sunburn/frostnip, I discovered, are all part of the joys of mountaineering!

  • After that, it was time for some relaxed hiking around the Chamonix valley, in very comfortable running shoes! The first day I hiked the North side of the valley from the top of the Flegere to Planpraz lifts. Beautiful trails were abundant, leading to mysterious lakes over the top of peaks, and to distant huts.

    After that, it was time for some relaxed hiking around the Chamonix valley, in very comfortable running shoes! The first day I hiked the North side of the valley from the top of the Flegere to Planpraz lifts. Beautiful trails were abundant, leading to mysterious lakes over the top of peaks, and to distant huts.

  • Mountain view 1

    Mountain view 1

  • Given the excellent weather the paragliders were out in force. It was rush hour at the top of the Planpraz lift.

    Given the excellent weather the paragliders were out in force. It was rush hour at the top of the Planpraz lift.

  • Takeoff red glider

    Takeoff red glider

  • Mt Blanc duo

    Mt Blanc duo

  • Dome de Goutier

    Dome de Goutier

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    Petite Verte N face climbers.jpg
    North face. Our guide, however, informed us we'd be going straight up the middle of this 90 m, 60 degree ice face. 'Righto' we said, with no idea how. Ignorance can sometimes be a good thing.
    We climbed in three, 30m pitches, with our guide hacking out miniature stances at the end of each rope length, and bolting us to the wall with ice screws, which we removed as we ascended. As the leader his maximum fall would be 60m if he fell - assuming I was able to successfully belay him. Perhaps given that I was a non-French speaking beginner, he hadn't bothered to attempt instruction. For entrusting their lives to strangers such as I these guides receive their modest daily fees. I must try to complain less about my job in future.