Mt Blanc in July.

However the views make it all worthwhile. After descending the 3 Monts Route we stayed the night in the Cosmiques alpine hut, in the Col du Midi. This is the newest, most luxurious of the alpine huts. This was the view at dawn. The unusually good weather had allowed a campsite to spring up at 3,800 m in the col.

Most people heading for the summit start at 2 am, to allow plenty of time to deal with unexpected contingencies and return safely by nightfall. Breakfast is served at 1, 3, 5 and 7 am. The rooms sleep 20, and people leave throughout the night. Few are left to leave at dawn.