1. 2011

Istanbul, Turkey, in June.

In June I headed to the ancient and historic city of Istanbul (formerly, Constantinople), to speak against animal experimentation at a lab animal science conference. At least the city itself would be fun... Don't miss the published story of this adventure.
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  • First, I had to navigate my way through a city of people with whom I could barely communicate, with the most rudimentary of maps, at night, to my hostel in the heart of the old city.

    First, I had to navigate my way through a city of people with whom I could barely communicate, with the most rudimentary of maps, at night, to my hostel in the heart of the old city.

  • Feral cats were everywhere. There were also quite a lot of feral dogs, completely at ease amongst the bustling throngs.

    Feral cats were everywhere. There were also quite a lot of feral dogs, completely at ease amongst the bustling throngs.

  • By following the tram tracks from the main square as instructed, I finally found my hostel - a stone's throw from the historic Galata Tower!

    By following the tram tracks from the main square as instructed, I finally found my hostel - a stone's throw from the historic Galata Tower!

  • This shot was taken from the hostel fire escape. Sadly, this beautiful tower, like the minarets throughout the city, was marred by loudspeakers from which the eerie wails of the imams called the faithful to prayer, seemingly at any random hour of the day or night - including, I discovered, at 04:00.

    This shot was taken from the hostel fire escape. Sadly, this beautiful tower, like the minarets throughout the city, was marred by loudspeakers from which the eerie wails of the imams called the faithful to prayer, seemingly at any random hour of the day or night - including, I discovered, at 04:00.

  • Following the guidance of a Lonely Planet article on how to spend the perfect day in Istanbul, I commenced with a cruise in the Bosphorus Strait which connected the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, dividing the city into European and Asian parts.

    Following the guidance of a Lonely Planet article on how to spend the perfect day in Istanbul, I commenced with a cruise in the Bosphorus Strait which connected the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, dividing the city into European and Asian parts.

  • Yeni Mosque from Golden Horn

    Yeni Mosque from Golden Horn

  • Several palaces, like Dolmabache here, were situated along the shores of the Bosphorus.

    Several palaces, like Dolmabache here, were situated along the shores of the Bosphorus.

  • I got very excited at seeing this wonderful castle...

    I got very excited at seeing this wonderful castle...

  • Bosphorus castle towers

    Bosphorus castle towers

  • The Yeni Mosque was the first I encountered whenever I crossed the Galata Bridge - my gateway into historic Sultanhamet where most of the key mosques and palaces were located.

    The Yeni Mosque was the first I encountered whenever I crossed the Galata Bridge - my gateway into historic Sultanhamet where most of the key mosques and palaces were located.

  • Seed sellers and buyers ensured a permanent flock of pigeons outside the Yeni Mosque, which locals would sometimes catch. I saw one caught and released apparently for 'fun'.

    Seed sellers and buyers ensured a permanent flock of pigeons outside the Yeni Mosque, which locals would sometimes catch. I saw one caught and released apparently for 'fun'.

  • Yeni Mosque interior

    Yeni Mosque interior

  • The main feature of any mosque seems to be its dome, which is invariably beautifully tiled.

    The main feature of any mosque seems to be its dome, which is invariably beautifully tiled.

  • Next to the Yeni Mosque is the Spice Bazaar, which has been operational for centuries. When not open, heavy gates bar the entrance.

    Next to the Yeni Mosque is the Spice Bazaar, which has been operational for centuries. When not open, heavy gates bar the entrance.

  • Market spices

    Market spices

  • They sell everything however - not just spices.

    They sell everything however - not just spices.

  • Unfortunately, next to the Spice Bazaar is a small animal market, with large numbers of overstocked birds and other animals in substandard conditions.

    Unfortunately, next to the Spice Bazaar is a small animal market, with large numbers of overstocked birds and other animals in substandard conditions.

  • Animal market puppies

    Animal market puppies

  • Animal market budgerigars

    Animal market budgerigars

  • This man was selling large leeches for medicinal (blood-sucking) purposes, for 1 Turkish lira each - about 40 p.

    This man was selling large leeches for medicinal (blood-sucking) purposes, for 1 Turkish lira each - about 40 p.

  • Next, I wound my way uphill towards the Grand Bazaar - apparently the world's largest!

    Next, I wound my way uphill towards the Grand Bazaar - apparently the world's largest!

  • Unfortunately, it was national election day, and the Grand Bazaar was closed! So I continued to check out the Blue Mosque - Istanbul's largest.

    Unfortunately, it was national election day, and the Grand Bazaar was closed! So I continued to check out the Blue Mosque - Istanbul's largest.

  • Blue Mosque interior

    Blue Mosque interior

  • Then I headed to Topkapi Palace - for many hundreds of years, the home of sultans and their extensive families.

    Then I headed to Topkapi Palace - for many hundreds of years, the home of sultans and their extensive families.

  • Topkapi Palace garden

    Topkapi Palace garden

  • Sadly, the Harem was closed. This grew over generations to occupy a large portion of the palace, and apparently no man set foot there other than the sultan (who lived there with his wives and concubines), for about 300 years. It was a place of great mystery and legend.

    Sadly, the Harem was closed. This grew over generations to occupy a large portion of the palace, and apparently no man set foot there other than the sultan (who lived there with his wives and concubines), for about 300 years. It was a place of great mystery and legend.

  • Topkapi Palace interior

    Topkapi Palace interior

  • I also saw the crown jewels and holy relics - among which the beards of various prophets featured very prominently.

    I also saw the crown jewels and holy relics - among which the beards of various prophets featured very prominently.

  • Sadly, the next day it was time to attend my conference - the ICLAS lab animal science conference. This exhibit shows 'battery' housing for laboratory rodents.

    Sadly, the next day it was time to attend my conference - the ICLAS lab animal science conference. This exhibit shows 'battery' housing for laboratory rodents.

  • That evening I got to socialise at the buffet with large numbers of animal experimenters! I was pleased to learn that my talk the next day about why animal experiments are generally of little use and unethical generated great interest.

    That evening I got to socialise at the buffet with large numbers of animal experimenters! I was pleased to learn that my talk the next day about why animal experiments are generally of little use and unethical generated great interest.

  • Fascinating though the conference was (!) I nevertheless couldn't bring myself to sit through all of it, and stole away on Day 2 to revisit the Grand Bazaar, which was now open. It was a seemingly endless indoor market, which I thought was over-rated.

    Fascinating though the conference was (!) I nevertheless couldn't bring myself to sit through all of it, and stole away on Day 2 to revisit the Grand Bazaar, which was now open. It was a seemingly endless indoor market, which I thought was over-rated.

  • It was, however, very exciting to see the Turkish delight on sale everywhere :) Some was even vegan!

    It was, however, very exciting to see the Turkish delight on sale everywhere :) Some was even vegan!

  • After surviving my talk, the pressure was finally off. It was time for an evening stroll once again across the Galata Bridge, which is covered every night by fisherman. Animal welfare remains at an infantile stage here.

    After surviving my talk, the pressure was finally off. It was time for an evening stroll once again across the Galata Bridge, which is covered every night by fisherman. Animal welfare remains at an infantile stage here.

  • Much of the city - and its sidewalks - appeared dedicated to encouraging tourists to part company with their money, in exchange for every manner of bauble...

    Much of the city - and its sidewalks - appeared dedicated to encouraging tourists to part company with their money, in exchange for every manner of bauble...

  • Yeni Mosque night cooler

    Yeni Mosque night cooler

  • Yeni Mosque night close-up

    Yeni Mosque night close-up

  • When I finally returned to my hostel, I was delighted to discover a top jazz band doing a world tour. They were performing at the base of the Galata Tower. I spent a very pleasant evening there :)

    When I finally returned to my hostel, I was delighted to discover a top jazz band doing a world tour. They were performing at the base of the Galata Tower. I spent a very pleasant evening there :)

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