2. 2011

Prague, Czech Republic, in October.

In October Jasmijn and I both managed to score speaking slots at the 2nd Annual European Conference for Critical Animal Studies in Prague, interested as we are in esoteric socio-philosophical theories about human-animal relations. In particular, I was deeply interested in the troubled relations between the citizens of medieval Prague and the fabled Golem, which unfortunately seemed to regularly end in disaster when the Golem ran amok. And so we prepared our powerpoint presentations, gathered our cryptozoological research tools, and boarded our fateful flight to one of Europe's most haunted cities...
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  • We stayed in a very up-market hostel at the end of Charles Bridge.

    We stayed in a very up-market hostel at the end of Charles Bridge.

  • Actually, we stayed at the far (West) end, below Prague Castle visible on the hill above the palace district.

    Actually, we stayed at the far (West) end, below Prague Castle visible on the hill above the palace district.

  • We stayed virtually at the base of the large tower of the West Gate to the bridge.

    We stayed virtually at the base of the large tower of the West Gate to the bridge.

  • This was the entrance hall to our hostel. Art was everywhere, all of it for sale.

    This was the entrance hall to our hostel. Art was everywhere, all of it for sale.

  • Our conference was in Charles University, opposite the Rudolfinum Concert Hall here.

    Our conference was in Charles University, opposite the Rudolfinum Concert Hall here.

  • The students of this university obviously had very broad-minded lecturers. Why didn't we get to learn witchcraft in vet school???!!!

    The students of this university obviously had very broad-minded lecturers. Why didn't we get to learn witchcraft in vet school???!!!

  • After the first day of lectures we all participated in a service and march through the old city, to remember the billions of animals killed annually for human purposes.

    After the first day of lectures we all participated in a service and march through the old city, to remember the billions of animals killed annually for human purposes.

  • After dinner, we headed for the social event at the K4 Student Club. However, it appeared to have been taken over by a heavy metal DJ and his fans. The 'screaming dinosaur' soundtrack scared us all away in search of a happier ambience.

    After dinner, we headed for the social event at the K4 Student Club. However, it appeared to have been taken over by a heavy metal DJ and his fans. The 'screaming dinosaur' soundtrack scared us all away in search of a happier ambience.

  • We wandered the Old City streets in search of a decent pub.

    We wandered the Old City streets in search of a decent pub.

  • Pub

    Pub

  • We found a lovely place underground where we had a great time getting to know the local activists, whom I interrogated about the Golem and their other cryptozoological heritage.

    We found a lovely place underground where we had a great time getting to know the local activists, whom I interrogated about the Golem and their other cryptozoological heritage.

  • Seeking greater expertise, we signed onto a ghost tour. Our haunted-looking guide seemed to know a disturbing amount about the Golem and the other unquiet spirits whom apparently continue to prowl Prague's ancient cobblestones.

    Seeking greater expertise, we signed onto a ghost tour. Our haunted-looking guide seemed to know a disturbing amount about the Golem and the other unquiet spirits whom apparently continue to prowl Prague's ancient cobblestones.

  • After this we wandered the Old City, admiring the beautiful lanterns...

    After this we wandered the Old City, admiring the beautiful lanterns...

  • The architecture...

    The architecture...

  • And the jewellery and artwork which was everywhere.

    And the jewellery and artwork which was everywhere.

  • And of course we met Harry Potter again (as in every other city we travel to), which was (as always) a thrill.

    And of course we met Harry Potter again (as in every other city we travel to), which was (as always) a thrill.

  • Old Town Square cafes 2

    Old Town Square cafes 2

  • Old Town Square night

    Old Town Square night

  • Astronomical Clock b

    Astronomical Clock b

  • This amazing astronomical clock was built by a medieval genius. His reward was to be blinded by the city councillors, to ensure he'd never be able to build a similar clock for any other city. However, he managed to grope his way around the clock and break it, after which he died satisfied. The clock remained broken for 80 years.

    This amazing astronomical clock was built by a medieval genius. His reward was to be blinded by the city councillors, to ensure he'd never be able to build a similar clock for any other city. However, he managed to grope his way around the clock and break it, after which he died satisfied. The clock remained broken for 80 years.

  • Astronomical clock close-up

    Astronomical clock close-up

  • We headed back to Charles Bridge and the way 'home'. From one of these bridge towers hung the severed heads of 12 Protestant leaders of a failed rebellion, following their execution in 1621. 11 remained there for a decade. I wondered what became of the missing head...

    We headed back to Charles Bridge and the way 'home'. From one of these bridge towers hung the severed heads of 12 Protestant leaders of a failed rebellion, following their execution in 1621. 11 remained there for a decade. I wondered what became of the missing head...

  • We crossed to the West side.

    We crossed to the West side.

  • Charles Bridge West Gate by night

    Charles Bridge West Gate by night

  • Charles Bridge statue with moon

    Charles Bridge statue with moon

  • The next morning I rose at dawn to find mist boiling off the freezing waters.

    The next morning I rose at dawn to find mist boiling off the freezing waters.

  • It was -3 C that morning and my hands almost froze to my tripod, but it was worth it to get this picture!

    It was -3 C that morning and my hands almost froze to my tripod, but it was worth it to get this picture!

  • Charles Bridge statue

    Charles Bridge statue

  • Charles Bridge dawn mist 2

    Charles Bridge dawn mist 2

  • At this sacred place lovers pray and lock padlocks engraved with their initials to a railing, before tossing their keys into the River Vlatva, so that the locks may never be undone. By binding iron to iron, they believe their love will be eternal. The custom has spread from a much larger railing near the Western Gate to this location and others across Europe.

    At this sacred place lovers pray and lock padlocks engraved with their initials to a railing, before tossing their keys into the River Vlatva, so that the locks may never be undone. By binding iron to iron, they believe their love will be eternal. The custom has spread from a much larger railing near the Western Gate to this location and others across Europe.

  • Charles Bridge love padlocks.

    Charles Bridge love padlocks.

  • Apparently the prayers are sometimes answered. This couple was posing for wedding photos on the bridge in the -3 C dawn light, the bare shoulders and arms proving that the fairer sex can also be the tougher sex.

    Apparently the prayers are sometimes answered. This couple was posing for wedding photos on the bridge in the -3 C dawn light, the bare shoulders and arms proving that the fairer sex can also be the tougher sex.

  • Legii Bridge and its island viewed from Charles Bridge at dawn, with mist rising from the freezing waters.

    Legii Bridge and its island viewed from Charles Bridge at dawn, with mist rising from the freezing waters.

  • Next it was time for a very brisk walk around the Old City in search of dawn photos, before the icy chill sapped the remaining life from my body.

    Next it was time for a very brisk walk around the Old City in search of dawn photos, before the icy chill sapped the remaining life from my body.

  • Old Town Square Tyn Church a

    Old Town Square Tyn Church a

  • Prague's architecture is amazing.

    Prague's architecture is amazing.

  • It was nearly lunch time by the time I'd warmed up. We headed up to Prague Castle, seen at the top of this photo.

    It was nearly lunch time by the time I'd warmed up. We headed up to Prague Castle, seen at the top of this photo.

  • Prague has some seriously cool gates.

    Prague has some seriously cool gates.

  • Heading up the Royal Way.

    Heading up the Royal Way.

  • Jasmijn ascending the Royal Way.

    Jasmijn ascending the Royal Way.

  • These beggars were common, and they apparently felt obliged to maintain this kneeling/praying posture, constantly, the poor critters.

    These beggars were common, and they apparently felt obliged to maintain this kneeling/praying posture, constantly, the poor critters.

  • We passed this medieval tavern on the way up to the castle.

    We passed this medieval tavern on the way up to the castle.

  • Medival Tavern sign

    Medival Tavern sign

  • The decor was second to none!

    The decor was second to none!

  • Medival Tavern jdeB

    Medival Tavern jdeB

  • Finally, we made it up to Prague Castle, where I found the same wedding couple who had been posing on Charles Bridge at dawn, posing for more photos, this time with their extended families in tow.

    Finally, we made it up to Prague Castle, where I found the same wedding couple who had been posing on Charles Bridge at dawn, posing for more photos, this time with their extended families in tow.

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    We found a lovely place underground where we had a great time getting to know the local activists, whom I interrogated about the Golem and their other cryptozoological heritage.
    Seeking greater expertise, we signed onto a ghost tour. Our haunted-looking guide seemed to know a disturbing amount about the Golem and the other unquiet spirits whom apparently continue to prowl Prague's ancient cobblestones.
    After this we wandered the Old City, admiring the beautiful lanterns...