2. 2012

Vallee Blanche in April

For years I've been searching for the elusive European yeti, Gigantopithecus modernis yetii. My first expeditions to the alps (see here and here) yielded important clues about likely yeti habitats, but no actual sightings (a big furry beast located on a mountain ledge one night turned out to be a misplaced hiker named Jacques see 'In search of the yeti Part II'). However, I'd had my suspicions about the remote Vallee Blanche for years. Skiers regularly disappear without trace here, and the numerous deep crevasses provide ample shelter. Surely if the yetis were out there it would be an ideal place to find them. So when surgery to repair an old arm fracture prevented me from working, I seized the opportunity to go searching... Don't miss the published story of this adventure!
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  • To minimise my carbon emissions I caught the coach. However it's about 21 hrs direct from London to Chamonix in the heart of the alps. I'll definitely be taking the Eurostar next time...

    To minimise my carbon emissions I caught the coach. However it's about 21 hrs direct from London to Chamonix in the heart of the alps. I'll definitely be taking the Eurostar next time...

  • At least however we got to catch the ferry across the English Channel. This is Dover, and Dover Castle sits commandingly on top of the cliff - which is also full of tunnels which used to house a British military command centre (and underground hospital) during World War II. The castle and tunnels are incredibly fun :)

    At least however we got to catch the ferry across the English Channel. This is Dover, and Dover Castle sits commandingly on top of the cliff - which is also full of tunnels which used to house a British military command centre (and underground hospital) during World War II. The castle and tunnels are incredibly fun :)

  • Finally we arrived in Chamonix, the world capital of alpinism.

    Finally we arrived in Chamonix, the world capital of alpinism.

  • Chamonix Valley is surrounded by sheer mountain ranges on both sides. The highest peak visible here is Mt Blanc - at 4,807 m the highest in Europe. The Bossons Glacier here tumbles 2,500 m down to Chamonix, at 1,000 m.

    Chamonix Valley is surrounded by sheer mountain ranges on both sides. The highest peak visible here is Mt Blanc - at 4,807 m the highest in Europe. The Bossons Glacier here tumbles 2,500 m down to Chamonix, at 1,000 m.

  • Due to my arm fracture I hadn't actually skied for 2 years. There was only one day of good weather for me to search the Vallee Blanche, which is a bit advanced, on Day 3. And so I headed into the murk to practice in days 1-2...

    Due to my arm fracture I hadn't actually skied for 2 years. There was only one day of good weather for me to search the Vallee Blanche, which is a bit advanced, on Day 3. And so I headed into the murk to practice in days 1-2...

  • Yeti country!

    Yeti country!

  • Yetis aren't the only hazard. This sign exhorts skiers to take avalanche transponders, shovels and poles, and gives average location times for skiers buried under 1 m of snow when different combinations of equipment are used to find them.

    Yetis aren't the only hazard. This sign exhorts skiers to take avalanche transponders, shovels and poles, and gives average location times for skiers buried under 1 m of snow when different combinations of equipment are used to find them.

  • After 2 days if skiing in conditions sometimes so bad I couldn't tell the difference between ground, air and sky, the weather finally cleared, and I headed up to Aiguille du Midi - the 'Needle of the South' - visible here above Chamonix at the highest point.

    After 2 days if skiing in conditions sometimes so bad I couldn't tell the difference between ground, air and sky, the weather finally cleared, and I headed up to Aiguille du Midi - the 'Needle of the South' - visible here above Chamonix at the highest point.

  • The two-stage trip is the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world, rising from 1,035 m to 3,842 m. And first thing in the morning it resembles the London underground at rush hour, although people aren't generally wearing black and looking depressed :)

    The two-stage trip is the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world, rising from 1,035 m to 3,842 m. And first thing in the morning it resembles the London underground at rush hour, although people aren't generally wearing black and looking depressed :)

  • The famous NE ridge, which we would soon have to descend to get to the start of the Vallee Blanche. The drop to the left goes becomes vertical just below the shot, seemingly forever...

    The famous NE ridge, which we would soon have to descend to get to the start of the Vallee Blanche. The drop to the left goes becomes vertical just below the shot, seemingly forever...

  • The cable car station is permanently encased in a sheath of snow and ice. A bridge (bottom right) runs into a series of tunnels within the mountain on which I'm standing.

    The cable car station is permanently encased in a sheath of snow and ice. A bridge (bottom right) runs into a series of tunnels within the mountain on which I'm standing.

  • The view here straight down from the bridge - which is usually battered by icy winds - is truly terrifying. But perhaps not for some. Some apparently superhuman climbers (circled) are actually attempting to climb up the gully beneath...!

    The view here straight down from the bridge - which is usually battered by icy winds - is truly terrifying. But perhaps not for some. Some apparently superhuman climbers (circled) are actually attempting to climb up the gully beneath...!

  • There is a viewing platform on top of the mountain. Mt Blanc is visible across the valley behind.

    There is a viewing platform on top of the mountain. Mt Blanc is visible across the valley behind.

  • A series of panoramic views from the viewing platform, well above the clouds.

    A series of panoramic views from the viewing platform, well above the clouds.

  • Bottom left is the trail left by climbers heading for Mt Blanc via the 3 Monts Route, which I attempted in 2009. I nearly died (mostly from fright), and failed to spot any signs of the yeti. Admittedly, fear of imminent death was distracting however, and numerous climbers mysteriously disappear on this route as well, so maybe those yetis are out there, somewhere...

    Bottom left is the trail left by climbers heading for Mt Blanc via the 3 Monts Route, which I attempted in 2009. I nearly died (mostly from fright), and failed to spot any signs of the yeti. Admittedly, fear of imminent death was distracting however, and numerous climbers mysteriously disappear on this route as well, so maybe those yetis are out there, somewhere...

  • Bottom right is the 'easy' trail leading to the start of the Vallee Blanche - the valley leading down the glacier to the left. We'll be there in less than an hour.

    Bottom right is the 'easy' trail leading to the start of the Vallee Blanche - the valley leading down the glacier to the left. We'll be there in less than an hour.

  • More of the valley is visible here.

    More of the valley is visible here.

  • And here is the Chamonix valley again, covered in cloud. Bottom right are skiers who've just survived the NE ridge, preparing to start their Vallee Blanche descent.

    And here is the Chamonix valley again, covered in cloud. Bottom right are skiers who've just survived the NE ridge, preparing to start their Vallee Blanche descent.

  • Now it's our turn. We headed through the rock tunnels, which end in a permanent snow cave.

    Now it's our turn. We headed through the rock tunnels, which end in a permanent snow cave.

  • The last chance to turn back. Beyond here helicopter rescue is the only way out. The Vallee Blanche is 17 km long, with a vertical descent of 2,800 m - the biggest descent of any major off-piste route in Europe.

    The last chance to turn back. Beyond here helicopter rescue is the only way out. The Vallee Blanche is 17 km long, with a vertical descent of 2,800 m - the biggest descent of any major off-piste route in Europe.

  • Onto the ridge, roped to the others in my group. When I was there in 2009 it was actually far steeper - only about 2 foot wide at the top, and without the cut path or handholds.

    Onto the ridge, roped to the others in my group. When I was there in 2009 it was actually far steeper - only about 2 foot wide at the top, and without the cut path or handholds.

  • 17 NE ridge team-mates

    17 NE ridge team-mates

  • Our French mountain guide Nicolai (in green) has the responsibility of keeping us alive. He and the others are gazing into the void.

    Our French mountain guide Nicolai (in green) has the responsibility of keeping us alive. He and the others are gazing into the void.

  • About 6,000 feet straight down...

    About 6,000 feet straight down...

  • 20 NE ridge drop 1

    20 NE ridge drop 1

  • Having survived the ridge!

    Having survived the ridge!

  • Even though I normally ski black slopes in good conditions, I discovered to my mortal embarrassment that the deep powder from 2 weeks of constant snow had rendered my 2 days of practice skiing in semi-whiteout conditions woefully inadequate. Accordingly I was falling even on the flat, and slowing the entire team. The stress and extreme sunshine also stopped me from noticing when my camera switched to black and white :( In short, a complete c--k-up. Which means that some day I'll have to return...

    Even though I normally ski black slopes in good conditions, I discovered to my mortal embarrassment that the deep powder from 2 weeks of constant snow had rendered my 2 days of practice skiing in semi-whiteout conditions woefully inadequate. Accordingly I was falling even on the flat, and slowing the entire team. The stress and extreme sunshine also stopped me from noticing when my camera switched to black and white :( In short, a complete c--k-up. Which means that some day I'll have to return...

  • It looks gentle from here, but the slopes we skied down (top right) were massive, more than steep enough for me, and covered in deep powder. Fortunately, intense concentration resulting from fear of death or worse - public humiliation - resulted in only one further fall, and I was deeply gratified to notice that even my expert team-mates were stacking it too. Note the crevasses to the top left - this is the top of the Geant Glacier.

    It looks gentle from here, but the slopes we skied down (top right) were massive, more than steep enough for me, and covered in deep powder. Fortunately, intense concentration resulting from fear of death or worse - public humiliation - resulted in only one further fall, and I was deeply gratified to notice that even my expert team-mates were stacking it too. Note the crevasses to the top left - this is the top of the Geant Glacier.

  • Heading towards the next big drop.

    Heading towards the next big drop.

  • This Japanese woman in my team had a kamikaze style of skiing. She would wizz by shouting 'Eeeeiii!' only to stack it shortly thereafter. She was completely fearless. The tiny dots at bottom left are skiers ahead of us. We have to descend the seracs of the lower Geant Glacier to reach them.

    This Japanese woman in my team had a kamikaze style of skiing. She would wizz by shouting 'Eeeeiii!' only to stack it shortly thereafter. She was completely fearless. The tiny dots at bottom left are skiers ahead of us. We have to descend the seracs of the lower Geant Glacier to reach them.

  • The path was narrow and the way steep (at least, for me), and crevasses were the penalty for failure. Unfortunately I was once again distracted from examining this ideal yeti habitat more closely by the now routine fear of death.

    The path was narrow and the way steep (at least, for me), and crevasses were the penalty for failure. Unfortunately I was once again distracted from examining this ideal yeti habitat more closely by the now routine fear of death.

  • Finally we reached the base of the seracs.

    Finally we reached the base of the seracs.

  • The deep powder gave everything an innocent look, but our guide informed us the crevasses were up to 60 m deep. We were all required to wear harnesses to make it easier to extract us if anyone fell in, as well as avalanche transponders.

    The deep powder gave everything an innocent look, but our guide informed us the crevasses were up to 60 m deep. We were all required to wear harnesses to make it easier to extract us if anyone fell in, as well as avalanche transponders.

  • After descending the Geant Glacier (upper middle) we joined France's biggest glacier, the Mer de Glace ('sea of glass').

    After descending the Geant Glacier (upper middle) we joined France's biggest glacier, the Mer de Glace ('sea of glass').

  • The way now is mostly flat.

    The way now is mostly flat.

  • 31 Mer de Glace view sideways

    31 Mer de Glace view sideways

  • Rest stop, with the ubiquitous crevasses nearby.

    Rest stop, with the ubiquitous crevasses nearby.

  • In midwinter it's possible to ski all the way back to town, but at the end of the season snowmelt required us to catch the train. The cable car at top right leads to the station. It was built years ago at ice level. A series of stairs had to be built as the glacier shrank an average of 10 m annually due to global warming, and now we had to carry our gear about 100 m up the cliff. All the European glaciers are rapidly receding and in time may vanish entirely. Meat and dairy production is one of the leading causes of climate change, so please be as vegan as you can!

    In midwinter it's possible to ski all the way back to town, but at the end of the season snowmelt required us to catch the train. The cable car at top right leads to the station. It was built years ago at ice level. A series of stairs had to be built as the glacier shrank an average of 10 m annually due to global warming, and now we had to carry our gear about 100 m up the cliff. All the European glaciers are rapidly receding and in time may vanish entirely. Meat and dairy production is one of the leading causes of climate change, so please be as vegan as you can!

  • On the train afterwards, shattered and covered in sweat, but very happy to be alive. Those yetis sure are tough critters...

    On the train afterwards, shattered and covered in sweat, but very happy to be alive. Those yetis sure are tough critters...

  • Taking stock back in the safety of the hostel... The sunburn was also pretty severe and my lips peeled off again (same thing happened last time I was up there - will the French ever introduce non-animal tested suncream!?!)

    Taking stock back in the safety of the hostel... The sunburn was also pretty severe and my lips peeled off again (same thing happened last time I was up there - will the French ever introduce non-animal tested suncream!?!)

  • To recuperate, I visited Chamonix's coolest restaurant, L'Impossible, started by a skier known for attempting feats believed to be impossible. Best of all, their menu included gourmet vegan fair! This place is a must visit for any vegetarians in Chamonix.

    To recuperate, I visited Chamonix's coolest restaurant, L'Impossible, started by a skier known for attempting feats believed to be impossible. Best of all, their menu included gourmet vegan fair! This place is a must visit for any vegetarians in Chamonix.

  • Warming up by the restaurant fire :)

    Warming up by the restaurant fire :)

  • The bad weather returned the next day. Tired of not being able to see whether I was skiing on or accidentally off the ski runs in the valley, but still in possession of a valuable high mountain lift pass, I decided to revisit my favourite place there - Aiguille du Midi.

    The bad weather returned the next day. Tired of not being able to see whether I was skiing on or accidentally off the ski runs in the valley, but still in possession of a valuable high mountain lift pass, I decided to revisit my favourite place there - Aiguille du Midi.

  • I explored the network of tunnels and viewing stations.

    I explored the network of tunnels and viewing stations.

  • In the summer this cable car goes right across the top of the mountain range and glacier(s) to Italy, and then descends the Italian side in several stages. Unfortunately it's always been closed when I've been there.

    In the summer this cable car goes right across the top of the mountain range and glacier(s) to Italy, and then descends the Italian side in several stages. Unfortunately it's always been closed when I've been there.

  • I headed back to the start of the NE ridge.

    I headed back to the start of the NE ridge.

  • It looked rather different today.

    It looked rather different today.

  • The drop into oblivion, deceptively hidden.

    The drop into oblivion, deceptively hidden.

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