2. 2014

Alps in April

I'm convinced the European yeti (Gigantopithecus modernii) is out there somewhere, and I'm determined to find it. After all, such little known creatures deserve the attention of modern veterinary medicine as much as any other species. And besides, it's been starting to get hot in St Kitts. And so during the April break I headed for the Alps once more...
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  • This shows the 3 Monts route to the summit of Mt Blanc visible in the background. At 4,807 m this is Europe's highest peak. With the assistance of a guide I managed to stagger to the top a few years ago - see here for the pics!

    This shows the 3 Monts route to the summit of Mt Blanc visible in the background. At 4,807 m this is Europe's highest peak. With the assistance of a guide I managed to stagger to the top a few years ago - see here for the pics!

  • This is Louis, a guide with the unenviable task of trying to keep a bumbling beginner like me alive. However he knows his job - at one point he stopped me taking a 100 m tumble…

    This is Louis, a guide with the unenviable task of trying to keep a bumbling beginner like me alive. However he knows his job - at one point he stopped me taking a 100 m tumble…

  • Before you go anywhere from Auiguille du Midi (the trailhead, at 3,800 m) you have to take this infamously beautifully terrifying NE ridge...

    Before you go anywhere from Auiguille du Midi (the trailhead, at 3,800 m) you have to take this infamously beautifully terrifying NE ridge...

  • When I first took the ridge there were no ropes and no easy side section. It's a 6,000 foot drop to the left, and a drop into crevasses on the right. It was also very narrow and steep as the snow had melted a lot in the summer. But it's always fun :)

    When I first took the ridge there were no ropes and no easy side section. It's a 6,000 foot drop to the left, and a drop into crevasses on the right. It was also very narrow and steep as the snow had melted a lot in the summer. But it's always fun :)

  • Next Louis and I climbed the famous, beautiful Cosmiques Ridge here about 200 m back up to the Auigulle du Midi

    Next Louis and I climbed the famous, beautiful Cosmiques Ridge here about 200 m back up to the Auigulle du Midi

  • On the ridge

    On the ridge

  • Having fun in the cold

    Having fun in the cold

  • Others tried harder routes. 3 of these guys formed a 100 m vertical line. This guy was leading. It was mixed vertical ice and rock the whole way, and beyond, if they fell...

    Others tried harder routes. 3 of these guys formed a 100 m vertical line. This guy was leading. It was mixed vertical ice and rock the whole way, and beyond, if they fell...

  • After a hard day's climbing at altitude, the beautiful sights of Chamonix here in the heart of the alps are very welcome indeed

    After a hard day's climbing at altitude, the beautiful sights of Chamonix here in the heart of the alps are very welcome indeed

  • The next day my new guide Julien took me here to Petit Verte. We could take a 300 m coulaire from the Argentiere Glacier on the left up to the summit, or climb the ridge to the right

    The next day my new guide Julien took me here to Petit Verte. We could take a 300 m coulaire from the Argentiere Glacier on the left up to the summit, or climb the ridge to the right

  • This was the ridge - it was the easier option it would have been tons of fun

    This was the ridge - it was the easier option it would have been tons of fun

  • more of the ridge

    more of the ridge

  • But of course we chose the hard route (someday if I live long enough I really need to grow a brain…) We started by following these skiers down to the Argentiere Glacier. They were starting the 5-6 day 'high route' across the mountains and glaciers to Zermatt.

    But of course we chose the hard route (someday if I live long enough I really need to grow a brain…) We started by following these skiers down to the Argentiere Glacier. They were starting the 5-6 day 'high route' across the mountains and glaciers to Zermatt.

  • First we had to get to the base of the coulaire. We followed these climbers...

    First we had to get to the base of the coulaire. We followed these climbers...

  • A bit further on these 10 foot high slabs had broken off the bottom of the next coulaire

    A bit further on these 10 foot high slabs had broken off the bottom of the next coulaire

  • This was the route Julien proposed we take. Only 300 m straight up...

    This was the route Julien proposed we take. Only 300 m straight up...

  • I'm almost a beginner and had never contemplated anything quite so terrifying before (with the possible exception of certain Mt Blanc climb slopes, 5 years ago…). However with a cheery smile my guide Julien encouraged me on… I wasn't entirely sure I wasn't heading to my death...

    I'm almost a beginner and had never contemplated anything quite so terrifying before (with the possible exception of certain Mt Blanc climb slopes, 5 years ago…). However with a cheery smile my guide Julien encouraged me on… I wasn't entirely sure I wasn't heading to my death...

  • It was beyond fear. Remember I'm a beginner. I barely know how to arrest a fall and that snow is sometimes loose… I survived mostly by not looking down.

    It was beyond fear. Remember I'm a beginner. I barely know how to arrest a fall and that snow is sometimes loose… I survived mostly by not looking down.

  • And by using the footsteps left by Julien and the climbers above. The woman is being guided by one of the world's leading alpinists, who recently opened a difficult new route in the himalayas. You can meet some amazing people in Chamonix (if you can stay alive long enough).

    And by using the footsteps left by Julien and the climbers above. The woman is being guided by one of the world's leading alpinists, who recently opened a difficult new route in the himalayas. You can meet some amazing people in Chamonix (if you can stay alive long enough).

  • I was also roped to my guide, Julien. Quite how he planned to stop us if either of us slipped and fell I didn't know...

    I was also roped to my guide, Julien. Quite how he planned to stop us if either of us slipped and fell I didn't know...

  • Finally, we made the top of the coulaire! I expected lovely wide rocks to sit on and dreamed of a starbucks with a soy latte… but found instead a knife-edged snow ridge with a 50 foot drop off the other side and nowhere to sit except on the ridge itself, which was very, very narrow...

    Finally, we made the top of the coulaire! I expected lovely wide rocks to sit on and dreamed of a starbucks with a soy latte… but found instead a knife-edged snow ridge with a 50 foot drop off the other side and nowhere to sit except on the ridge itself, which was very, very narrow...

  • The fearless Julien simply lowered me off the edge. This is all in a day's work for him. He's climbed the north face of the Eiger and God only knows what else.

    The fearless Julien simply lowered me off the edge. This is all in a day's work for him. He's climbed the north face of the Eiger and God only knows what else.

  • On the way down we were rewarded with spectacular views of the Argentiere Glacier

    On the way down we were rewarded with spectacular views of the Argentiere Glacier

  • At last it was time for another spot of extreme ironing. Time to relieve some of that stress and to get the wrinkles out of some of the gear!

    At last it was time for another spot of extreme ironing. Time to relieve some of that stress and to get the wrinkles out of some of the gear!

  • At 3,300 m this broke my ironing altitude record by 100 m.

    At 3,300 m this broke my ironing altitude record by 100 m.

  • And then it was back to base in the beautiful Chamonix valley, over 2,000 m below

    And then it was back to base in the beautiful Chamonix valley, over 2,000 m below

  • The next day dawned clear and bright so I decided to go searching for the yeti in the Vallee Blanche with two guys from the hostel, Adrien and Nick. The Vallee is 17 km deep in the wilderness full of crevasses in which yetis could hide and skiers provide a steady stream of potential food… what better place to look?

    The next day dawned clear and bright so I decided to go searching for the yeti in the Vallee Blanche with two guys from the hostel, Adrien and Nick. The Vallee is 17 km deep in the wilderness full of crevasses in which yetis could hide and skiers provide a steady stream of potential food… what better place to look?

  • But first, we took a quick trip up to the Auiguille du Midi viewing platform at 3,800 m.

    But first, we took a quick trip up to the Auiguille du Midi viewing platform at 3,800 m.

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  • Finally it was time to start our descent. The trail starts in this ice cave.

    Finally it was time to start our descent. The trail starts in this ice cave.

  • Then we had to descend the famous North East ridge of Aiguille du Midi, made most interesting trying to balance skies, without crampons, on ski boots with almost no grip.

    Then we had to descend the famous North East ridge of Aiguille du Midi, made most interesting trying to balance skies, without crampons, on ski boots with almost no grip.

  • If you slip, it's 6,000 feet down to Chamonix :)

    If you slip, it's 6,000 feet down to Chamonix :)

  • The views as we descended the glaciers of the Vallee were spectacular.

    The views as we descended the glaciers of the Vallee were spectacular.

  • But the Vallee is a deadly place. The crevasses swallow several skiers each year (or, perhaps, they met hungry yetis?)

    But the Vallee is a deadly place. The crevasses swallow several skiers each year (or, perhaps, they met hungry yetis?)

  • To save us though we had Nick. He's extremely at home in the mountains. His secret ambition is to ski the coulaire visible in the middle of the mountain behind him, in winter. As you can see it's very narrow and almost vertical.

    To save us though we had Nick. He's extremely at home in the mountains. His secret ambition is to ski the coulaire visible in the middle of the mountain behind him, in winter. As you can see it's very narrow and almost vertical.

  • I'm far more sensible. Here I took a brief break to attend to some domestic chores. I also broke my extreme ironing altitude record here at 3,600 m. Given the possibility of crevasses Nick did not approve of stopping here, but the ironing had to be done.

    I'm far more sensible. Here I took a brief break to attend to some domestic chores. I also broke my extreme ironing altitude record here at 3,600 m. Given the possibility of crevasses Nick did not approve of stopping here, but the ironing had to be done.

  • Skiers dodging the crevasses. The group to the left are blocking the main path. I think they'd just rescued one of their number who had fallen down a crevasse,

    Skiers dodging the crevasses. The group to the left are blocking the main path. I think they'd just rescued one of their number who had fallen down a crevasse,

  • About half way down we took a break at the Refuge du Requin here.

    About half way down we took a break at the Refuge du Requin here.

  • The refuge is supplied by helicopter, as are all the mountain refuges.

    The refuge is supplied by helicopter, as are all the mountain refuges.

  • I rarely drink bad stuff like coke but the effort of dodging crevasses while ironing required some strong medicine.

    I rarely drink bad stuff like coke but the effort of dodging crevasses while ironing required some strong medicine.

  • Finally it was time to go again, so we headed off down the glacier. Here we're at 2,500 m. In total we descended about 2,500 m as well.

    Finally it was time to go again, so we headed off down the glacier. Here we're at 2,500 m. In total we descended about 2,500 m as well.

  • We crossed numerous crevasses, and debated their depths - somewhere between 30 and 90 m was the consensus. I kept a keen eye out for signs of yeti activity...

    We crossed numerous crevasses, and debated their depths - somewhere between 30 and 90 m was the consensus. I kept a keen eye out for signs of yeti activity...

  • These ice lakes on the glacier near the crevasses provided a perfect water source for the yeti - and possibly a bathing area as well. But still, it seemed I would have to enter the crevasses to encounter the yeti, and my courage was not at its best this day...

    These ice lakes on the glacier near the crevasses provided a perfect water source for the yeti - and possibly a bathing area as well. But still, it seemed I would have to enter the crevasses to encounter the yeti, and my courage was not at its best this day...

  • Here we're descending the lower reaches of the Mer de Glace (sea of glass) glacier

    Here we're descending the lower reaches of the Mer de Glace (sea of glass) glacier

  • The ice used to be about 100 m higher at the top of the moraine there. The glacier is lowering by about 10 m/year due to global warming and may disappear entirely within a decade or two :(:(

    The ice used to be about 100 m higher at the top of the moraine there. The glacier is lowering by about 10 m/year due to global warming and may disappear entirely within a decade or two :(:(

  • Here we are at the end, thankfully alive at the end of another fabulous day in Chamonix, world capital of extreme sports, and home - somewhere - of the mysterious European yeti. I know it's out there somewhere. Next time I'll find it for sure… :)

    Here we are at the end, thankfully alive at the end of another fabulous day in Chamonix, world capital of extreme sports, and home - somewhere - of the mysterious European yeti. I know it's out there somewhere. Next time I'll find it for sure… :)

  • And of course after all our hard efforts the pretty lights of beautiful Chamonix by night awaited us

    And of course after all our hard efforts the pretty lights of beautiful Chamonix by night awaited us

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    First we had to get to the base of the coulaire. We followed these climbers...
    A bit further on these 10 foot high slabs had broken off the bottom of the next coulaire
    This was the route Julien proposed we take. Only 300 m straight up...